Drive the Skellig Ring with confidence – quiet viewpoints, walking stops, Skellig Michael boats, places to eat, where to stay, and planning tips.
The Skellig Ring is one of those routes that feels bigger than a drive. The Atlantic is always present, the land drops away quickly, and the sense of distance builds with every bend. Done well, it’s not about covering miles — it’s about stopping often, walking short stretches, and letting weather and light dictate the pace.
Where the Skellig Ring Actually Goes
The Skellig Ring is a coastal loop that branches off the Ring of Kerry around Waterville and loops south through Ballinskelligs, St Finan’s Bay, and Portmagee before rejoining near Cahersiveen.
It’s shorter than the main Ring of Kerry, but far more intense. Roads are narrower, scenery is closer, and traffic thins quickly once you leave the main route.
When to Drive the Skellig Ring
Timing matters more here than almost anywhere else in Kerry.
- Early morning – Best light, fewer vehicles, calmer feel
- Late afternoon – Dramatic skies, quieter roads, better for walking stops
- Midday in summer – Busiest, especially around Portmagee and Ballinskelligs
If you’re visiting in July or August, avoid starting the loop between 10am and 3pm where possible.
Stops Worth Leaving the Car For
The Skellig Ring rewards people who stop often, even briefly.
Ballinskelligs Abbey & Beach
A ruined Augustinian priory sits right beside a wide Atlantic beach. It’s an easy stop that combines history and space in a single place.
Access is open, and there’s no ticketing. For historical context, Heritage Ireland provides background on monastic sites across Kerry.
St Finan’s Bay
On a clear day, the Skelligs feel close here. It’s also a good place for a short beach walk or simply sitting with the view.
Skellig Ring Viewpoints
Several informal pull-ins offer better views than signed stops. Use common sense and don’t block narrow roads — traffic here still relies on cooperation.
Skellig Michael: Planning the Island Visit
Skellig Michael is one of Ireland’s most remarkable heritage sites, but visiting it requires planning and flexibility.
Landings on the island are strictly limited and weather dependent. Tickets must be booked with licensed boat operators, and even confirmed trips can be cancelled at short notice.
For official site status, conservation rules, and access restrictions, consult Skellig Michael on the Heritage Ireland site.
For sailing schedules and operator details, the Skellig Michael boat operators association provides the most up-to-date information.
If landings are cancelled, boat trips that circle the island still offer excellent views and context.
Walking Along the Route
You don’t need to commit to long hikes to enjoy walking on the Skellig Ring.
- Short coastal walks near Ballinskelligs
- Headland paths around St Finan’s Bay
- Beach walks that change character with the tide
Footwear with grip is advisable year-round. Weather changes quickly, even in summer.
Where to Eat Along the Skellig Ring
Food options are limited but well placed.
- The Moorings (Portmagee) – A reliable stop for seafood and lunch. Very busy in summer; arrive early or expect a wait.
- Beach Cove Café (St Finan’s Bay) – Seasonal, simple, and perfectly placed for a relaxed stop.
- Local pubs in Portmagee – Good for evening meals if you’re staying nearby.
Outside peak season, opening hours can change quickly. It’s wise to eat earlier than you might elsewhere.
Where to Stay
The Skellig Ring works best if you stay nearby rather than trying to fit it into a long driving day.
- Portmagee – Ideal if you’re planning a Skellig Michael trip. Small guesthouses and family-run accommodation dominate.
- Ballinskelligs – Quieter, with self-catering options and a strong sense of space.
- Waterville – More services and dining, with easy access to the northern end of the loop.
Booking directly with accommodation owners is common here and often results in better local advice.
Car Hire & Driving Advice
A car is essential for the Skellig Ring.
Nearest car hire pickup points include:
- Kerry Airport – around 1 hour 15 minutes’ drive
- Cork Airport – wider choice of providers, around 2.5 to 3 hours
- Killarney town – limited availability, book well ahead
Drive slowly, expect oncoming traffic, and use passing places considerately. This route depends on patience.
Best Time of Year
May, June, and September offer the best balance of light, access, and space. July and August bring long days but heavier traffic. Winter suits experienced drivers who are comfortable planning around weather.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Skellig Ring different from the Ring of Kerry?
Yes. It’s quieter, narrower, and more focused on coastal scenery.
How long does it take to drive?
Allow at least half a day with stops.
Do I need to book Skellig Michael in advance?
Yes. Landings must be booked with licensed operators.
What if Skellig Michael trips are cancelled?
Boat tours around the island still run in some conditions.
Is the drive difficult?
It’s narrow in places but manageable with care.
Is this suitable for nervous drivers?
Yes, if you take it slowly and avoid peak times.
Are there toilets along the route?
Limited. Portmagee and seasonal cafés are the most reliable.
Is the Skellig Ring busy in summer?
Yes, especially late morning to mid-afternoon.
Can you do this without a car?
No. Public transport does not serve the loop.
Is this suitable year-round?
Yes, but winter visits depend heavily on weather.
Are there places to swim?
Yes, in calm conditions at Ballinskelligs and nearby beaches.
Does this work as a day trip?
Yes, but staying nearby makes it far more enjoyable.
Cahersiveen Church Portmagee
Numerous opportunities exist along this route for long and short walks, easy and difficult climbs and bike rides where your only companions will be the birds, the sheep and the occasional farmer to bid you on your way.
There are numerous places available to overnight in this area, including Hostels, Bed & Breakfasts, Country Farmhouses and award winning Hotels.
Cahersiveen
From Cahersiveen take the N70 towards Waterville and catch the ferry from Renard Point to Valentia Island. The ferry service departs approximately every ten minutes from 7am to 10 pm. From Knightstown travel east along the ring road towards Portmagee. Visit the grotto, which was developed from a disused quarry tunnel in 1954.
Also worth a visit are Gleanleam Sub-Tropical Gardens which were created over 150 years ago and are famous for a unique collection of rare southern hemisphere plants. Return to the mainland via the Maurice O’Neill Bridge which links Valentia to Portmagee.
Skellig Experience Centre
The Little Skellig is one of the most important sites for nesting birds in Ireland and Britain. It is home to thousands of gannets, puffins, guillemots and cormorants, with more than 20,000 pairs of gannets during the summer nesting season. Find out more at the Skellig Experience visitor centre at Portmagee.
The centre tells the tale of the 6th century monks and 19th century lighthousemen that lived there and offers detailed information on the seabirds and aquatic life from the region and an audio visual show on Skellig Michael.
From Portmagee, travel east on the R567 taking in spectacular views from the top of Coomanaspig out onto the Skellig rocks and Puffin Island. Coomanaspig is one of the highest points in Ireland accessible by car (335m / 1000ft).
It is imperative to stop and enjoy the view before descending to St. Finan’s Bay. The pier in St. Finan’s bay is a popular launch pad for divers exploring the underwater world of wonder that surrounds the Skellig Rocks.
Also worth a visit are the Killemlagh Church ruins, which were originally built in the 12th or 13th century on the site of St. Finan’s original monastery. The “Pagan’s Grave”, which is an enclosure of standing stones, is also within easy reach of Killemlagh.
Ballinskelligs
Continue onwards along the coast road to the village of Ballinskelligs, a popular centre of Irish Language learning during the summer months. It’s award winning blue flag beach stretches for miles and lies on the attractive bay facing the larger resort of Waterville across the water.
At the western end of the beach are the remnants of a 16th century castle belongin g to the McCarthy clan. Visit the Cill Rialaig project, which is a wonderfully restored famine village which now hosts many world renowned artists, who donate some of their works to the Siopa Chill Rialaig in Dungegan. The gallery has a superb collection of paintings and local crafts for sale and also holds important exhibitions throughout the year.
Charlie Chaplin
From Ballinskelligs travel east on the R567 (Skellig Ring) to the village of Waterville. The village is best known for its award winning 18 hole championship golf links, which is a popular favorite of Tiger Woods, Mark O’Meara, Henry Cotton and Ray Floyd.
The course is one of Ireland’s oldest golf courses, founded in 1889, and is rated amont the top 5 in the country. Charlie Chaplin is one of the many famous visitors who have spent holiday time in the region. A life-size statue of Charlie Chaplin is situated in the centre of the village.